After the successfully me-pleasing Byzantine Collection and Ancient Roman maiden-inspired coin-heavy spring/summer collection, Dolce & Gabbana continue to present excellence in their A/W 2014-2015 Menswear:
With some impressively medieval-looking prints:
If their continued romp through history follows the same pattern as before I guess we can expect a step backward in time to the “Dark Ages” (maybe some Hun-inspired jewellery?) and then another leap forward to around the Georgian period. Either way, I can’t wait, and can’t get enough of these architectural and printing-press prints.
And unrelated to D&G, but with a rather similar look, they could do worse than to take a leaf out of the book of whoever created these glorious Garden Of Earthly Delights Doc Martens:
So, a couple of years ago a pair of Queen Victoria’s bloomers went up for auction. They had a fifty plus inch waist and had her initials and a crown embroidered on them (in case she left them on the bench when she changed for swimming lessons and couldn’t remember which ones were hers afterwards).
Also, they didn’t join up between the legs.
No one’s did. When you’re wearing a chemise, a corset, a bodice, stockings, multiple petticoats, a dress and various other layers of clothing, in the days before the invention of elastic and your bloomers had to be tied on to your waist (under your corset), your toilet choices were stripping naked or not stripping at all.
Before the 1800s polite women went completely commando; only prostitutes bothered with pants (presumably because their legs got colder?). Then came pantaletters, aka “two tubes tied on with string”, which tended to come undone and fall off one leg at a time. As the crinoline comes in split leg drawers becomes more popular, mostly because of the drafts, but then the crinoline flattens at the front and moves to the back and bustles are the new black. There’s no need for drawers to be completely split any more, so like Victoria’s above they tend to join at the back and split from underneath to the front.
Knickerbockers, that joined up completely, start appearing in the 1850s, but they’re considered terribly unfashionable, impractical, and frankly unhealthy. Plus, when you tripped over your crinoline and when arse over teakettle, you didn’t flash the gentlemen, and apparently that just wasn’t on.
By the late nineteenth century they were beginning to pick up in popularity, if you were the sort of woman who did mannish things like gardening or bicycle riding or anything practical, but your gentry still weren’t terribly keen. Though they joined up underneath, it still wasn’t easy to get them off, so trapdoors were introduced in the back. Think “cartoon children’s onesies”. Which were next up to bat, for fashionable women – as dresses got tighter and more streamlined underwear became an all in one proposition, camiknicker style. Some sported trapdoors, some stuck to split legs.
By the end of world war one open crotch drawers were on their way out – skirts got shorter and dancing got wilder, and apparently flashing your parts at the French Diplomats was no longer the done thing – and with elastic becoming readily available it was even possible to get them on and off with some ease.
If you want to know more about the history of underwear, check out the following:
Prior to about last year I generally reviled Dolce & Gabbana as the province of awful sunglasses and people who don’t like their dogs to walk on the ground, but recently they’ve been putting out some pretty alluring catwalk shows. Drawing their inspiration from earlier periods of history than designers have been wont to of late, they’ve been grabbing my attention with a certain amount of focus on the stages of the Roman and Holy Roman Empires.
First there was the SS13 Byzantine line:
Now there’s this, from the SS14 collection:
As a fan of both floral bookending (flowers in the hair and flowers on the feet) and coins in costuming, I’m seriousyly pro-D&G’s SS14 line. They’re in real danger of making me quite grumpy that I could never afford any of their styling!
More fashion houses need to pander to me by plundering the depths of Mediterranean fashion history and covering basically everything with gold.