All posts by bighatdino

All The Pink is Mine

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Over the past few years I’ve been breaking the social conditioning that occurred when I was a child (not by my parents, but by other adults and other children): “You are a boy, you do not like pink”.  I love pink.  I really, really fucking love pink.  I like several shades of pink, but mostly I like the pink shade that’s on those trainers above and the dayglo pink that is magenta.

There were actually periods in the 80s that were kind to these loves.  In ’87 it was fashionable for boys to wear grey & pink clothing – the senior year in my school could chose their uniform colours and that year they went for this combination, of light grey and a light, baby pink.  Then, by ’89, it was fashionable to wear dayglo colours (aceeeeeed!), which ended up seeing me regularly wearing dayglo pink toweling socks (that material, what were we thinking?).

Sadly pink was lost to boys as the arrival of grunge consigned bright colours to children’s wear and pink to the girls’ section.  And, from that point on the decision to purchase something with pink in it, no matter what item or how much pink, returned to having the stigma that pink was for girls.  All of this became deeply ironic when I learned that pink had traditionally been a colour for boys (thanks QI!).

But then pink came back, as fashion for men has expanded again, so I started expanding the pink in my life, from my basic t-shirts to my nerdy toys (seriously, magenta pink colourways are the best!).  In fact, those trainers up top, which combine my love of pink with my love of camo (and inspired this post), are due for release on Nov 30th and they will be mine.  Happy days.

And, hell, I like pink that much my Xbox 360 controller is pink:

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Sports Meets Military?

Let me start by saying that I dislike Nike with a passion, and I will not buy, nor even wear, their products, so don’t think of this as an endorsement.  That said, now there’s the difficult bit: here are some nice Nike products.

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I don’t feel quite so bad about these as I normally would, because they’re actually a collaboration between Nike and Jun Takahashi’s Undercover on the GYAKUSOU running line.  The ladies gillet, more so than the men’s, has such a lovely edge of a classic 18th Century military jacket:

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I’m sure it’s for technological reasons that the jacket is shaped as it is, the tech that goes into sports clothing these days being beyond sanity, but I do love the (possibly coincidental) similitude in style.  It’s still Nike, though, so don’t buy it.

From 40s’ Factories to SS14’s catwalks

There was a really rather excellent trend in this year’s SS14 lines that seemed to take inspiration from women during World War II.  This meant a nice use of one of my favourite colours, olive green, but there’s more.  While previous seasons have seen a focus on soldiers, there was only a bit of that in evidence.

Alexis Mabille went for the factory worker, mixing the boiler-suit look with a navy bandana, aping Rosie the Riveter:

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Prada (who really shocked me with their SS14 line… I don’t know where they keep getting their designers) used simple blocks of olive green, with nice chunky pockets, mixed with some really neat leg warmers (check the second photo… such cool leg warmers):

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And then there was Olympia Le-Tan.  She took the archetypal 40s sailor and mixed it with 40s women’s style to produce a stunning line of elegant trousers and cute dresses and sexy sailor suits:

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The full line is well worth checking out, the designs and motifs in use are truly excellent.  And I didn’t even include the black leather dress, which is like some kind of miracle.

And here I was, worried…

I keep worrying that McQueen had lost its edge.  The recent lines have been relatively lacklustre, barring the odd stunningly good outfit.  I really shouldn’t worry when this jacket exists:

McQueen Textured Leather Biker Jacket

While it uses a traditional biker jacket as its basis, there’s a nice twist in moving the belt to the neck forcing the high collar.  I like high collared jackets (a rare commodity in men’s fashion bah, humbug, etc.) so this really hit the spot.  Then there’s the cut which feels reminiscent of armour, meaning this jacket wouldn’t look out of place on a horse, let alone a bike.  It’s this structural element that differentiates it nicely from the raft of biker jackets that litter both high & high street fashion.

Trainer Heels – A Rebuttal of Sorts

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The Kyura

I get where Del’s coming from with her complaints about Trainer Heels.  A lot are being sold because of their “hidden heel” nature, where you get the adjusted posture of heels, but nobody can tell they’re heels (like Tom Cruise wears).  But the ultimate failing of this footwear is that it’s fallen into the most horrific of holes that any clothing can: it’s a staple of high-street brands.  Everyone has their own version, though there’s very little variation between them.  Generic footwear kills fashion dead, and it pretty much has in this case… but then there’s Yohji Yamamoto, Adidas and Y-3:

Adidas Y-3
The Oriah

To the left is the Oriah boot.  It’s a trainer, it’s a wedge, but gone are the bland shape and colour choice.  It’s not using an existing shoe as its basis like that awful Nike heeled trainer, it’s creating something new.  The same applies to the current line’s Kyura trainer (see right), its a platform trainer, but doesn’t have a non-heeled equivalent, even in this line, and consist of colours you really will not see in the high-street.

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The Torsion

Now I’m not going to pretend it’s all sweetness and light.  There have been… questionable elements to the Y-3 line, but they are still something unique, not the homogenised white/cream trainer with suede or gold elements to it, or a conversion from another trainer like those dull Converse.  Even when they used the Torsion shoe name, one of Adidas’s stalwart trainers, they end up with something unique, crafting trainer technology into the shape of a slip-on heeled ankle boot.

My favourite of the bunch is the Nomad, below, one of the prettiest hybrids between ankle boot and trainer – pretty to the point where people probably won’t even consider them a heeled trainer (they’d look superb with wet look leggings, and I’d love to rock them with Lip Service’s Altered Perception leggings, but that’s just me).  What they serve to demonstrate is that it’s not the concept that’s wrong, it’s the continual lazy execution of it, using basic colours, uninteresting shapes.  But people will keep buying them, even when Y-3 are still pushing the boundaries.  So yeah, these hybrids of sports fashion and shoe fashion have some legs, but you just have to ignore the background noise and focus on the true signal:

adidas Y-3 by Yohji Yamamoto Y-3 Nomad Wedge